1963, 1964, 1965 Mopar push-button transmission tech tips

1964 Chrysler, Dodge, Plymouth Design Changes: Automatic Transmissions, Push-Button and Console

Adjusting Transmission Shift Cables

Method One

• Before inserting the cable into the transmission, take out the neutral safety switch.
• Look inside and there should be two "fingers" inside. They are shaped in a "V", not sure of the technical name.
• Have an assistant hold the Neutral switch in.
• Insert the cable until it hits one of these "fingers". Not hard, but touches. The "finger" should not move.
• Adjust cable housing so it can be tightened without moving the "finger".
• Re-insert Neutral safety switch.
• Start the car and run through the gears. If it works fine, you are done; however, if it doesn't go to the next step.
• Do the same process over again, this time hit the other "finger".
• Re-adjust housing so it will tighten.

Method Two

Put the shifter in neutral. Disconnect the brown wire on the starter relay (it is the neutral switch wire). Also disconect the other end of the same wire (attached to the threaded post on the neutral switch).

Now make a long "jumper" wire from a piece of wire in the 14 to 18 gauge range, and attach a male spade terminal to one end on the wire. Plug that spade terminal into the end of the brown wire that was attached to the starter relay. Hook up an "ice pick" type test light to the end of that same brown, neutral switch wire that is dangling under the car. That is the end you removed from the neutral switch. Now the jumper wire you made, attach to the positive cable on the battery.

Next,get under the car and remove the 7/16" head cap screw that is holding down the wheel adjuster on the transmission shift cable. Loosen the wheel by turning counter clockwise, until it is almost off the end of the cable.

Now with the test light pointer (ice pick type end) in one hand touch it to the threaded post on the neutral switch, while pulling, and pushing the cable in and out of the transmission case. When you are in the neutral position on the detent, the test light will light up, confirming you are in neutral. Once the light is in a position where the light remains on, rotate the adjusting wheel on the shift cable clockwise until it is against the transmission case. Now you may have to fine tune your adjustment. Usually by turning the adjuster left or right by 1 or 2 holes.

If it is not fine-tuned you end up with an adjustment where you have to push in on the neutral button slightly.

The method the factory uses in a service manual never worked for me, so I came up with this method. Give it a try. You can not mess up unless you ground out the hot end of that wire while it is attached to the battery.

After you are satisified with your adjustment, remove the jumper wire, re-install the neutral switch wire, and re-install the small cap screw in the adjuster wheel.

Thanks to Jimmy P. for this technique! [August 2009 - Revised July 2012]

Method Three

Use an ohmmeter like the test light method: “The ohmmeter gives a resistance reading between it’s two probes. If the probes touch it is zero resistance. When you touch the probes to another pathway it tells if there is a high or low pathway. The Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) completes a circuit by supplying a ground in this case. The terminal on the NSS will show no pathway until it is engaged. If the ohmmeter shows low resistance between the terminal and the case then it is engaged. Just like using a test light but no outside power required, as the meter has a battery of it’s own.” —Rich K. (March 2014)

Method Four

The absolute best way to adjust the buttons is to remove the pan and adjust N for perfect central contact on the neutral saftey switch. Kickdwn linkage. Make sure when throttle is wide open, kickdown linkage is all the way back as well. That is all there is to it. Works perfect. — Schuyler W.

Shift Cable Technique

There is a certain amount of lost motion in the shift-train...basically the pushbuttons get the cable in the right neighborhood then the manual valve detent spring pushes the manual valve detent ball into the manual valve lever (rooster comb, if you will) to precisely position the manual valve, through the manual valve lever. This precise alignment is critical to proper operation of the neutral start switch (and reverse lights on later models).

The original adjustment procedure seems a little nutty when you’re standing there looking at the valve body, but it takes this lost motion into account. — Steve C.

• Update March 2014: Paul L. notes: “My 2 cents: I have used the Factory Service Manual method, test light method, Ohm meter method, and eyeball method. What I found was that there is a little inaccuracy in the shift cable mechanism. If you line up the neutral detent with the neutral safety switch by eye it will be close. However you need to use the push buttons to shift the mechanism a few times to see where things will 'land'. Most of the time it will be off slightly. You can then use the wheel to fine tune things. An analog type Ohm meter is then helpful because it will show if you are slightly off by showing varying levels of resistance as you adjust it in and out. The test light will work this way as well with the light getting brighter or dimmer as you home in on the sweet spot and the neutral safety switch makes good contact.”
• Steve C. replies: “You’re absolutely right, Paul. Depending on the condition (wear, bends/kinks, etc) of your shift cable, there is lost motion (hysteresis) when changing directions.
  
  Picture this: You have a 3 foot long piece of 1/2" heater hose, and you have a piece of small diameter (1/8") wire rope inside the hose. The hose is laid out on a table in front of you in the shape of the letter 'U', with the open ends pointed toward you. If you pull one end of the wire rope toward you 1", the free end of the wire rope moves away from you just about the same amount. Pull another one inch, and the free end moves away another inch.
  
  Now push the wire rope away from you 1". The free end of the wire rope moves little, if at all. Your 1" motion has been lost inside the hose as the wire rope moves to the outside of the 'U' shaped bend.
  
  This is an extreme example, but exactly what happens with any push-pull type of cable application. This is the reason for the 'rooster comb' on the manual valve lever - basically we get it close with the shifter and cable, and the spring and ball force the rooster comb to precisely the same place every time. Unless of course, your cable is sticky, corroded, kinked, etc. and won’t allow the manual valve lever to move that extra small amount.
  
  Having fine threads and adjustment holes at 60 degree increments allows length adjustments of as little as .007" per hole, so finding that perfect spot is ensured, again, depending on the condition of your cable. And again, as long as there is not significant friction in the cable, close enough is usually close enough.
  
  So if you’re having a problem getting a 1962-1965 shifter adjusted properly, first check the entire system for lost motion. The shifters (pushbutton, console and column) are very robust and seldom the cause of problems (despite what you’ll read other places), but any attaching points of either the inner member or outer housing can cause issues.
  
  Starting at the shifter end, check the fit of the eyelet on the shifter pin (not usually worn but sometimes the wrong cable is used), the fit of the bayonet 'pointy end' into the adapter, and the fit of the adapter into the manual valve detent lever (often incorrect if parts have been swapped or modified). Also ensure that the eyelet and bayonet are securely crimped to the wire. Check the housing mount where the shifter (or bracket in the case of pushbuttons) is crimped to ensure the connection is tight and there is no movement. For pushbuttons, make sure the bracket is tightly screwed to the pushbutton unit. You can use a thin nut inside the pushbutton housing in the event of stripped holes. Then check the integrity of the crimps at the upper ferrule and the adjuster to be sure the housing isn’t sliding in and out as the cable is moved. Finally, check the threaded adjusting wheel to ensure there is no significant motion at the threads (there will be a few thousandths) and that the wheel is securely attached to the transmission case.
  
  Last, if your transmission has been rebuilt or repaired, be sure the manual valve detent lever spring is of correct size. Very few transmission shops have the correct spring, and since the original spring is very light (we are, after all, shifting with plastic pushbuttons), technicians often replace the spring with a heavier one, as it’s obviously 'better'. Too heavy or long of a spring requires additional force to move the detent lever, resulting in bracket deflection, loosening of crimps, or accelerated cable wear. In extreme cases the inner member will kink. It should take very little pressure to move the manual valve lever, unlike the 1966-later models.
  
  The bottom line is that the pushbutton shift system (as well as the console/column variants) is very robust and dependable. Stories of adjustment horrors are always the result of worn, damaged, or incorrect parts. Like the ball and trunnion, pushbutton vintage shifters get a bad rap because they are different, and many would rather swap them out than learn about them.
  
  That said, some of the other manufacturers that used pushbuttons definitely gave pushbutton shifters a bad name!”

1962-1965 727 TorqueFlite Interchange

1962-1964 pushbutton 727 TorqueFlites are the same. The 1965 727 TorqueFlite can be used with pushbutton with a minor valve body/cable modification. The main difference you have to check is the bell housing bolt pattern. Big block B/RB and small block A/LA engines are different. For example, if the engine is the right group the 1964 Fury 727 will work in a 1962. Both will have the 19 spline shaft using the same converter.

Note: Do not discard any pushbutton valve bodies! They are getting hard to find and many shops do not have exchange units. — Nick T.

TorqueFlite Transmission Removal

I like removing the upper bellhousing bolts while the car is still sitting on the tires. If you have a remote starter switch that you can use to hook up to the starter relay, now’'s the time to do that too. Removing the oil filter on a small block motor makes it easier to remove one of the bellhousing bolts.

• Jack the car up, and get it on jackstands.
• Drain the transmission fluid.
• Remove the flange bolts on the driveshaft. Both ends.
• If you don't have a remote starter switch, take a 1/2 inch break-over bar with a 1 and 1/4 inch socket, and put it on the crankshaft bolt.
• Remove the inspection cover at the bottom of the bellhousing, If it is a small block, the plate will be in the center at the bottom, retained by two bolts. A big block inspection cover has a larger cover, and a different starter seal.
• Rotate the crankshaft until you see the torque converter to flexplate bolts (9/16 inch socket).
• After you remove all four bolts, remove the shift cable, neutral switch wire, kick down rod, and park cable, and two fluid to cooler lines (5/16 inch tubing) from the transmission case.
• Disconnect either, or both, battery cables.
• Now remove the starter from the bellhousing and the remaining lower bellhousing bolts. One bolt is hiding behind the starter on a small block motor, so be sure to remove the starter, but there is no need to remove the starter wiring.
• Get a floor jack under the transmission pan.
• Remove the two cushion bolts under the extension housing (5/8 inch socket) and the four rear mount bolts (3/4 inch socket, and combination wrench).
• You should be able to push the floor jack towards the rear of the car with the transmission on it.
• Lower the jack.
• If you have not raised the car enough on the jack stands, you won’t be able to get the transmission out from under the car. A jack stand with a 21 inch rise should be enough.
• You should be done in 1.5 to 3 hours time.

Removing the shift and park cables is the only trick issue. Parking cable: loosen the lockdown, and pull the cable out until it stops clicking when the output shaft is turned. Retighten the lock nut. — Jimmy P.

Additional 1962 to 1965 TorqueFlite References

• If you do not come to a complete stop before putting it in Park. you will break the parking pawl and may break the housing as well. - Doug D.
• How to put a high-stall torque converter in an early 727 TorqueFlite transmission.
• Automatic Transmission Shift Cable Removal, Installation and/or Adjustment Models: A11 1964 "V" Series Passenger Cars equipped with Automatic Transmission SERVICE BULLETIN
• Mopar transmission cable removal and maintenance tips: There is a hairpin clip that retains the shift cable, and the park cable. You can stick a screwdriver in the shift cable hole where the adjuster is, to release the hairpin on the cable end. Last resort is to remove the drain pan to release. It is easily seen then. Same thing on the park cable. There is a socket head hex screw in the bottom of the park cable housing. Remove that screw/plug, and insert a screwdriver. You kind of use the screwdriver as a lever on the shift cable once inserted in the hole. On the park cable, use a small pocket screwdriver to push up the hairpin retainer end. -- Jimmy P.
• It is tempting to remove the PARK lock housing without removing the cable first. But slow down: use extreme caution when removing this piece. There is a spring that attaches the cable adapter to the dog in the transmission that is virtually impossible to disconnect when removing the housing with the cable in place. The gaskets are only $4 but the springs are expensive and while they can be re-wound and re-installed, it is definitely the hard way to do the job. It is really tempting to just pull those 5 bolts out but if you plan to reuse the parts take your time.
       Patience is the only way to get the cable loose without inflicting damage: soak the pinch bolt with your favorite penetrating oil for as long as it takes to get it to move back and forth in the housing. Too much or too forceful tapping will peen the end of the pinch bolt over so easy does it...a nice plastic, copper or lead mallet or piece of hardwood works well. Once the pinch bolt is sliding freely, then start gently twisting the cable ferrule in the housing.
       Southern or gently used cars usually come apart easily but those of us who live in the snow belt have gotten used to allowing plenty of time for this.
       The most prevalent failure mode for these cables is leakage. The lower ferrules are crimped over the vinyl coating on the cable housing to create the seal which keeps the transmission fluid in the cable. Engine heat and petroleum products work together over the years to harden the vinyl and the vinyl cracks right at the edge of the ferrule, resulting in a leak. We have experimented with many, many ideas over the years but the only durable solution we have found is to replace the cable. I know they are expensive and I wish we could sell them for less, but we do what we have to in order to keep the doors open.
       The best solution we found for leaky cables (other than replacement) is to remove the cable and thoroughly clean it. Decades of oil immersion has penetrated the long lay wires in the housing so it takes quite a lot of cleaning to get oil to quit oozing out of the wires. Once everything is clean and dry you can use your favorite sealant or epoxy to seal the crack. Take care to get as much in the crack as possible, then smooth a light coat over the repair, extending 1/2"- 3/4" either side of the crack. Avoid the temptation to build layers, the stiffer the cable gets the easier it will crack. Clean everything again and apply glue-lined heat shrink tubing over the repair. Butt the heat shrink up against the shoulder on the adjusting ferrule, then shrink the tubing until glue runs from each end. Make sure your adjusters and their mating holes are clean and lightly lubricated so things go together with a minimum of force, and use new o-rings. It is not a permanent repair, but with gentle handling it might get you through a few seasons.
       Again, the best way to make these Mopar transmission cables last is to handle them gently. Use plenty of penetrating oil and do what you can to keep everything clean. If you have to twist to get something to move, grip the adjusting ferrule and do not pull on the vinyl housing... and only twist the ferrule enough to break it loose and work it a little. Use genuine Vise-Grips or high quality equivalents, save the Harbor Freight pliers for less delicate work. Repair engine and transmission fluid leaks: anything leaking from the radiator, engine, power steering pump, A/C or transmission follows gravity to the lowest point on the transmission before dripping...those usually being the transmission mount or the park lock cable. Degradation of both of these parts is accelerated when immersed in any of these fluids, so fix the leaks and keep everything clean! -- Steve C.
• Feedback about removing the Mopar transmission cables:
  >There is a hairpin clip that retains the shift cable, and the park cable. You can stick a screwdriver in the shift cable hole where the adjuster is, to release the hairpin on the cable end. You kind of use the screwdriver as a lever on the shift cable once inserted in the hole. A last resort is to remove the drain pan to release. It is easily seen then. Same thing on the park cable. There is a socket head hex screw in the bottom of the park cable housing. Remove that screw/plug, and insert a screwdriver. On the park cable use a small pocket screwdriver to push up the hairpin retainer end. -- Jimmy P.
  >Some people find it impossible to get at that retainer and get it to release through the cable hole. So they drop the pan and have no trouble. The shift cable retainer is pretty easy to release through the plug on the bottom of the tranny, but either way requires the pan to be drained and dropped. -- BC
  >You are working blind and it is hard to visualize what is going on in there with the screwdriver. With the pan off, you can practice and, once you see how the release works, it is easier to do the next time with the drain pan on. -- Gary H.
• 1962 to 1965 Mopar Transmission Torque Converter Upgrade Swap in a few parts from a 1967-and-up TorqueFlite 727 to retain the pushbutton style TorqueFlite but use a later style torque converter.

View more 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965 Mopar push-button transmission tips about sticky push-buttons and PARK cable removal